How Does UV Light Cause Tanning?
UV light causes tanning, which is to say and increase of the skin pigment melanin, by stimulating a cellular process mediated by the tumor-suppressor gene p53[1]. The whole point of this process is to protect skin cells against UV light, which can damage DNA and lead to problems like cancer, cell death, and the breakdown of extracellular matrix proteins (e.g., collagen) in the skin. This latter effect is what leads to observable skin aging in the form of wrinkles, lines, lost elasticity, and more.The pathway is activated when UV light damages DNA in the upper layers of the skin. The damage done to the DNA results in stabilization and activation of the p53 tumor suppressor protein. This, in turn, promotes activation of proopiomelanocortin (POMC). POMC is cleaved to product alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH), which then binds to the melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R). This causes melanocytes to both produce more melanin as well as divide and increase in number. Together, these effects cause an increase in melanin pigment leading to darkening of the skin. The melanin then absorbs the harmful UV light preventing further DNA damage[2].Note that tanning via UV light does not occur until after DNA damage has occurred. This means that the potential for cancer development is already present before tanning occurs because DNA damage has already occurred. Therefore doctors have warned against UV-based tanning for years. The only solution, until recently, has been to avoid UV light entirely by either staying out of the sun or by wearing sunscreen. Unfortunately, recent research shows that sunscreen has problems of its own such as damaging coral reefs and potentially causing hormone dysregulation[3]. The current research is focused on promoting melanin production without exposure to UV light, thus gaining the benefits of melanin protection without first inducing DNA damage.
The New Solution to Sunless Tanning
If scientists could stimulate tanning without the DNA damage that jumpstarts the natural process, then we could experience the benefits of tanning without any of the risks. Research into the tanning pathway has been of interest for several decades now, in part because of the discovery of melanotan and the melanocortin receptor system. Interestingly, melanotan was developed as a sunless tanning agent and then became of interest for an entirely different purpose. It’s ability to protect the skin against UV damage was almost completely forgotten as its ability to stimulate sexual arousal became the focus of melanotan research. Much later, research shifted again and melanotan became a front-runner in sunless tanning research. This peptide has since inspired the exploration and development of other peptides for sunless tanning research. Some of those peptides are discussed below along with other compounds associated with sunless tanning.
